Le CLOS DU
MOULIN AUX MOINES
France - Bourgogne - Auxey-Duresses
Long over-looked and underrated, Auxey-Duresses has emerged as a prime source of best-value burgundy in recent years, especially for the top reds, which at their best can be delightfully Volnay-like.
The Clos du Moulin aux Moines is a lovely old domaine that was the property of the renowned Abbey of Cluny in the 10th Century; it is beautifully situated on the slopes of the Cote de Beaune above the village of Meursault. It has been owned by the Andrieu family since 2008; since taking over they have farmed it biodynamically. Young Jordane Andrieu now runs the estate, having previously worked at two of Burgundy's most prestigious domaines - none other than Domaine De Montille and Domaine Comtes Lafon, both of which are biodynamic. Clos du Moulin aux Moines received a Coup de Coeur from Le Guide Bettane et Desseauve's Le Grand Tasting in 2011.
The 'vieilles vignes' (planted in 1950) are located in the highest and steepest corner of the clos, where only a very meagre layer of soil covers the bedrock; they produce just 6,000 bottles of this exceptionally complex monopole each year. This is unquestionably one of the greatest climats in Auxey.The grapes are hand-harvested in late September; after fermentation they spend 18 months in oak, about 20% of which is new. The wines is delightfully aromatic, complex and concentrated, with flavours of black fruit and kirsch, plush texture and well-integrated tannins.
The Chardonnay vines were planted in 2004. The Clos du Moulin aux Moines monopole is right on the boarder of Auxey-Duresses and Meursault and thus the vineyard's soils are very similar to those found in the more famous neighbouring appellation. Elevage for the white is very similar to that of the red using small percentages of new wood and maturing for 16-18 months prior to bottling. Citrus, ripe fruit and toasted hazelnut aromas; dense and richly textured with a nice line of crisp, refreshing acidity.
This is an almost too-good-to-be-true example of 'Next' Burgundy. It will not be so affordable forever.